DIY End Table Made From Wood Pallets – A Complete Guide
If you’ve ever walked past a stack of reclaimed pallets and imagined a stylish side table popping out of the wood, you’re not alone. Pallet wood is a treasure trove for budget‑friendly, sustainable furniture, and an end table is one of the most approachable projects for beginners and seasoned makers alike. In this post you’ll learn why pallets work so well for an end table, what tools and materials you’ll need, how to build a sturdy piece step‑by‑step, and even how to finish it so it looks like a polished piece of studio‑grade furniture.
Below you’ll also find handy tables that compare costs, dimensions, and finish options, plus a Frequently‑Asked‑Questions (FAQ) section to clear up any lingering doubts. Ready to turn that stack of wood into a functional accent? Let’s get started.
1. Why Choose Pallet Wood for an End Table?
| Benefit | What It Means for You | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| Low Cost | Most pallets are free or cost under $5 each. | You can allocate your budget to tools, paint, or accessories instead of pricey lumber. |
| Eco‑Friendly | Reclaimed wood keeps old timber out of landfills. | You’re reducing waste and giving new life to a material that would otherwise be discarded. |
| Rustic Character | Natural knots, nail holes, and weathered patina. | Adds instant personality and a “shabby chic” vibe to any room. |
| Easy to Disassemble | Pallets are designed to be taken apart. | You can separate boards quickly with a few basic tools, making the build process fast. |
| Strong Structure | Pallet boards are typically hardwood or soft‑wood of ½‑inch thickness. | Provides a sturdy base that can hold books, lamps, or a plant without sagging. |
Because of these advantages, pallet wood has become a go‑to material for DIY furniture makers worldwide. The only caveat is that not every pallet is created equal—some are treated with chemicals, some are nailed with rusted fasteners. The sections that follow will show you how to select, prepare, and build with the safest, most reliable boards.
2. Planning Your Table
Before you swing a hammer, sketch a quick plan. Consider the following variables:
- Size – Typical end tables range from 18‑24″ wide and 16‑20″ deep, with a height of 20‑28″. Decide which dimensions fit your side‑chair or sofa.
- Style – Do you prefer a raw, industrial look, or a smooth, painted finish? This will dictate whether you sand heavily or keep the grain exposed.
- Function – Will the table hold a heavy lamp? Will you add a lower shelf for magazines? Your design should accommodate the intended load.
Quick Design Worksheet
| Element | Suggested Range | Your Choice |
|---|---|---|
| Width | 18–24 in | 20 in |
| Depth | 16–20 in | 18 in |
| Height | 20–28 in | 24 in |
| Top Thickness | ¾–1 in | 1 in (two boards laminated) |
| Lower Shelf (optional) | 0–4 in from bottom | 2 in |
| Finish | Natural, Stained, Painted, Lacquered | Stained + Matte Polyurethane |
Write your decisions down; they’ll guide your material list and cutting plan.
3. Tools & Materials Checklist
| Item | Quantity | Approx. Cost (USD) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reclaimed pallets (good condition) | 2–3 | $0–$10 (free if sourced locally) | Look for “HT” (heat‑treated) stamps; avoid “MB” (methyl bromide). |
| Circular saw or handsaw | 1 | $30–$150 | Use a fine‑tooth blade for clean cuts. |
| Power drill / driver | 1 | $40–$120 | Needed for screw removal and assembling. |
| 1½ in wood screws (coarse thread) | 1 box (≈ 100) | $5–$8 | Choose stainless steel to resist rust. |
| Sandpaper (80, 120, 220 grit) or orbital sander | Set | $10–$20 | For smoothing rough edges. |
| Wood filler | 1 tube | $5 | Optional for nail holes. |
| Stain or paint | 1 quart | $10–$25 | Choose a low‑VOC option for indoor use. |
| Polyurethane (matte or satin) | 1 quart | $12–$20 | Protects the finish. |
| Clamps (optional) | 2–4 | $10–$30 | Helpful when gluing boards together. |
| Safety gear (gloves, goggles, dust mask) | 1 set | $5–$15 | Always wear protection. |
Total estimated budget: $100–$250, depending on the tools you already own and the finish you select.
4. Preparing the Pallet Wood
4.1. Disassembly
- Inspect each pallet for broken boards, rot, or excessive nail rust. Set aside any damaged pieces.
- Lay the pallet on a stable surface and use a pry bar and hammer to carefully remove the top boards. Work from the outer edge inward to avoid splintering.
- Remove nails with a nail puller or the claw of a hammer. If you have a reciprocating saw with a metal‑cutting blade, you can cut nails flush before pulling them.
4.2. Cleaning & Safety
- Wash the boards with warm, soapy water to lift dust, grease, or pesticide residues. Rinse and let dry completely (24–48 hrs).
- Sanitize by wiping with a solution of 1 part white vinegar to 3 parts water; this helps kill any lingering microbes.
- Check for hidden treatments – If the pallet is stamped “HT” (heat‑treated) you’re safe; avoid “KD” (kiln‑dried) or “MB” (treated with methyl bromide).
4.3. Cutting to Size
Using your design worksheet, mark the dimensions on the boards:
- Top slab – two boards glued edge‑to‑edge for a 1‑in thick surface (e.g., two ¾‑in boards).
- Legs – Four pieces, each cut to the desired height (e.g., 24 in).
- Side aprons – Two pieces for the front and back, width equal to the table depth minus the leg thickness.
- Optional lower shelf – One board cut to width minus leg thickness, depth as desired.
A circular saw with a fence or a table saw gives the cleanest straight cuts. Remember to wear eye protection and keep the blade guard engaged.
5. Assembly – Step‑by‑Step
| Step | Action | Tips |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Glue the top boards – Apply a generous bead of wood glue along the adjoining edges, clamp tightly, and let cure 30 min. | Use a scrap piece of 2×4 as a clamp bar to press the boards evenly. |
| 2 | Attach the aprons – Position the front and back aprons flush against the inside of the legs, forming a rectangular frame. Secure with 1½‑in screws (2 per joint). | Pre‑drill pilot holes to prevent wood splitting. |
| 3 | Add side aprons – Install the left and right side aprons in the same manner, completing the lower frame. | If you added a lower shelf, screw it into the aprons now. |
| 4 | Secure the top – Place the glued‑up top slab onto the frame, align edges, and drive screws through the aprons into the top (four to six screws per side). | Countersink the screws slightly; you’ll fill the holes later. |
| 5 | Fill screw and nail holes – Apply wood filler, let dry, then sand smooth. | Use a putty knife for a flush finish. |
| 6 | Sand the entire piece – Start with 80‑grit to remove roughness, progress to 120‑grit, finish with 220‑grit for a silky surface. | Sand in the direction of the grain to avoid scratches. |
| 7 | Apply finish – Brush or wipe on your chosen stain, let dry per manufacturer’s instructions, then apply two coats of polyurethane, sanding lightly (220 grit) between coats. | For a rustic look, consider a “whitewash” or “chalk” paint followed by a protective coat. |
Allow each finish layer to cure fully (usually 24 hrs) before using the table.
6. Finishing Touches & Styling Ideas
- Add a metal accent – Attach a small brass or copper pipe under the top for an industrial vibe.
- Include a drawer – Cut a shallow box from leftover pallet boards and mount it beneath the tabletop for hidden storage.
- Swap legs for hairpin metal legs – If you want a mixed‑material look, replace wooden legs with sleek hairpin steel legs (available at most hardware stores).
- Protect the floor – Apply felt pads to the bottom of each leg to prevent scratches on hardwood or carpet.
7. Cost Breakdown – Quick Reference
| Category | Low‑End (DIY) | Mid‑Range (DIY + Upgraded Materials) | High‑End (Professional Finish) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pallet wood | $0 (free) | $15 (high‑quality reclaimed) | $30 (hand‑selected hardwood) |
| Tools (if you need to buy) | $150 (basic set) | $200 (higher‑quality) | $250 (premium) |
| Fasteners & glue | $8 | $12 | $15 |
| Finish (stain + polyurethane) | $20 | $35 | $50 |
| Miscellaneous (sandpaper, clamps, felt pads) | $15 | $25 | $30 |
| Total | ~$193 | ~$297 | ~$395 |
Even at the low‑end estimate, your end table will cost a fraction of a store‑bought counterpart, which typically starts around $150‑$250 for a comparable size and design.
8. Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: Are pallet boards safe for indoor furniture?
Yes, provided you use pallets stamped “HT” (heat‑treated) or “KD” (kiln‑dried). Avoid pallets marked “MB” (treated with methyl bromide) because that chemical can be hazardous. Always clean, sand, and finish the wood before bringing it inside.
Q2: How do I prevent splinters?
A thorough sanding sequence (80 → 120 → 220 grit) followed by a protective finish eliminates surface roughness. Feel the surface with your fingertips; if it’s smooth, splinters are unlikely.
Q3: What if my pallet boards are uneven in thickness?
Select boards that are as uniform as possible. If you have variations, you can plane them down with a hand plane or a router sled to reach a consistent thickness, especially for the tabletop.
Q4: Can I paint the table instead of staining?
Absolutely! Primer the wood first, then apply two coats of latex or acrylic paint. Finish with a clear polyurethane to protect the paint from wear.
Q5: How much weight can a pallet end table support?
A well‑built table with 1‑inch thick top and sturdy legs can safely hold 40–60 lb. If you plan to place heavier items (e.g., a large floor lamp), use thicker legs or add a metal reinforcement bracket inside the frame.
Q6: Do I need to treat the wood against insects?
If the pallets are clean, dry, and stored indoors, the risk is minimal. However, you can apply a borate‑based wood preservative before finishing for extra peace of mind, especially in humid climates.
Q7: Where can I find pallets for free?
Many hardware stores, garden centers, or moving companies leave pallets on the curbside. Call ahead and ask if they’re willing to give you a few. Always inspect for damage before taking them home.
9. Final Thoughts
Building an end table from reclaimed pallet wood is more than a cost‑saving hack—it’s an opportunity to inject personality, sustainability, and a sense of accomplishment into your living space. By following this guide, you’ll end up with a sturdy, eye‑catching piece that tells a story of repurposing and creativity.
Remember, the key to a great pallet table lies in selection, preparation, and finish. Choose clean, heat‑treated pallets, take the time to sand and fill any imperfections, and apply a protective coat that suits your style. Whether you leave the grain exposed for a rustic look or paint it a bold hue for a contemporary vibe, the table will become a conversation starter whenever guests sit down with a cup of coffee.
So grab that saw, lay out your design, and let the reclaimed wood transform your side‑room into a showcase of DIY ingenuity. Happy building!