The Best Finish for Pallet Wood: A Complete Guide for DIY‑Enthusiasts
Whether you’re turning discarded shipping pallets into rustic coffee tables, garden planters, or wall art, the finishing step is what turns “rough” into “refined.” The right finish protects the wood, highlights its character, and keeps your project looking great for years to come.
In this post you’ll discover:
- The most popular finishing options for pallet wood
- How each finish performs in terms of durability, ease of application, cost, and aesthetic
- A quick‑reference table to help you pick the perfect match for your project
- Step‑by‑step tips for prepping and applying the finish you choose
- Frequently asked questions that clear up common doubts
Let’s dive in and make your pallet project shine!
1. Why Pallet Wood Needs a Good Finish
Pallet wood is typically rough‑sawn, has uneven grain, and may contain nail holes, splinters, or residual chemicals from its previous life. A proper finish does three things:
| Benefit | What It Means for Your Pallet Project |
|---|---|
| Protection | Shields against moisture, UV rays, and everyday wear. |
| Stability | Reduces the wood’s tendency to warp, crack, or split over time. |
| Aesthetics | Enhances grain, adds color, and allows you to match any décor style. |
Skipping the finishing step isn’t an option if you want a durable, beautiful piece that lasts.
2. Top Finishing Options & How They Compare
Below is a side‑by‑side comparison of the most common finishes for pallet wood. Use the table to narrow down the best candidate based on your priorities.
| Finish | Typical Use Cases | Appearance | Durability (Indoor/Outdoor) | Application Ease | Dry Time* | Cost (per qt) | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Polyurethane (oil‑based) | Tables, benches, shelves (indoor) | Clear, glossy to satin | ★★★★★ (Indoor) | ★★☆☆☆ (brush/roller) | 4‑6 h (touch dry) | $30‑$45 | Very hard surface, water‑resistant | Strong odor, long cure, can yellow over time |
| Polyurethane (water‑based) | Same as oil‑based, but for lighter colors | Clear, low‑gloss to satin | ★★★★☆ (Indoor) | ★★★☆☆ (brush/roller) | 1‑2 h (touch dry) | $25‑$35 | Low odor, dries fast, non‑yellowing | Slightly softer than oil‑based, not ideal for outdoor |
| Exterior Spar Urethane | Outdoor furniture, garden planters | Amber‑tinted, moderate gloss | ★★★★★ (Outdoor) | ★★☆☆☆ (brush) | 6‑8 h | $35‑$55 | UV blockers, flexible, weather‑proof | Can amber wood, strong smell |
| Oil Finish (Tung or Linseed) | Rustic tables, chairs, décor pieces | Warm, natural look, enhances grain | ★★★★☆ (Indoor) / ★★☆☆☆ (Outdoor) | ★★★★☆ (cloth/rag) | 24‑48 h (full cure) | $20‑$40 | Penetrates deeply, easy to re‑apply, no film | Requires multiple coats, slower drying, less surface hardness |
| Hardwax Oil (e.g., Osmo) | Kitchen counters, tabletop, high‑traffic indoor | Satin, natural feel | ★★★★☆ (Indoor) | ★★★★☆ (cloth/rag) | 12‑24 h | $35‑$60 | Combines oil penetration + wax seal, easy maintenance | Needs periodic re‑waxing, higher cost |
| Milk Paint + Topcoat | Shabby‑chic, painted looks, vintage furniture | Matte to chalky, can be tinted | ★★☆☆☆ (Indoor) / ★☆☆☆☆ (Outdoor) | ★★★☆☆ (brush/roller) | 1‑2 h (dry) | $15‑$30 | Eco‑friendly, great for distressed looks | Needs a protective topcoat for durability |
| Epoxy Resin | Bar tops, river tables, high‑gloss pieces | Glass‑like, high gloss | ★★★★★ (Indoor) | ★★☆☆☆ (mix & pour) | 6‑12 h | $80‑$120 | Extremely hard, water‑tight, stunning finish | Expensive, requires careful mixing, limited UV resistance |
| Penetrating Sealer (e.g., Penetrol) | Pre‑seal before paint or stain | Invisible | ★★★☆☆ (Indoor) | ★★★★★ (spray/brush) | 30‑60 min | $15‑$25 | Prepares wood for any topcoat, reduces blotchiness | Not a final finish; must be followed by paint/stain |
*Dry time refers to touch‑dry; full cure may take longer.
Quick Decision Guide
| Goal | Recommended Finish |
|---|---|
| Maximum water/UV resistance for outdoor furniture | Exterior Spar Urethane or a high‑quality marine varnish |
| Natural, warm look with easy touch‑up | Tung Oil or Hardwax Oil |
| High‑gloss “river‑table” effect | Epoxy Resin (topcoat) |
| Low VOC, fast drying, no yellowing | Water‑based Polyurethane |
| Budget‑friendly, rustic paint look | Milk Paint + clear polyurethane topcoat |
3. Step‑by‑Step: How to Prepare Pallet Wood for Any Finish
No matter which finish you select, proper surface preparation is the key to a flawless result.
| Step | What to Do | Why It Matters |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Disassemble & Clean | Remove boards, strip any fasteners, and wash with a mild detergent. Rinse and let dry completely. | Removes dirt, grease, and loose debris that can trap bubbles. |
| 2. Sand | Start with 80‑grit to level rough spots, then progress to 120‑grit and finish with 180‑grit. For a super‑smooth surface, finish with 220‑grit. | Opens wood pores for better penetration and eliminates splinters. |
| 3. Fill Gaps & Nail Holes | Use wood filler or epoxy putty, then sand smooth once cured. | Prevents uneven finish and strengthens weak spots. |
| 4. Remove Dust | Vacuum, then wipe with a tack cloth or a slightly damp rag. | Dust particles cause gritty finish spots. |
| 5. Choose & Test Finish | Apply a small test patch on an inconspicuous area. Observe colour shift and drying time. | Ensures you like the final look before committing to the whole piece. |
| 6. Apply Finish | Follow product‑specific instructions (brush, roller, sprayer, rag). Usually 2‑3 coats are ideal. | Multiple thin coats give a more even, durable film than one thick coat. |
| 7. Light Sand Between Coats | Use 220‑grit sandpaper or a fine sanding sponge. Wipe away dust. | Promotes adhesion of subsequent coats and eliminates dust nibs. |
| 8. Final Cure | Keep the piece in a dust‑free environment, at least 24‑48 h for oils, 72 h for polyurethanes, 7 days for epoxy. | Full hardness and chemical resistance develop only after cure. |
Pro Tips
- Heat‑treat pallets first – Place them in an oven at 200 °F for 30 min to kill potential insects and reduce moisture.
- Use a de‑nailer – A pneumatic nail puller saves time and prevents board damage.
- Ventilation matters – Work in a well‑ventilated area, especially with oil‑based products.
- Protect your hands – Nitrile gloves prevent skin irritation from solvents and oils.
4. Real‑World Examples
| Project | Finish Used | Reason for Choice |
|---|---|---|
| Rustic Farmhouse Dining Table | Tung Oil + 2 coats of Hardwax Oil | Desired a warm, natural look that could be refreshed with a simple wipe‑down. |
| Patio Coffee Table | Exterior Spar Urethane | Needed UV protection and flexibility for outdoor temperature changes. |
| Industrial Bar Top | Epoxy Resin (clear) over sanded pallet wood | Wanted a high‑gloss, spill‑proof surface that showcases the wood grain. |
| “Shabby Chic” Shelf | Milk Paint (off‑white) + clear water‑based polyurethane | Achieved a vintage matte look while keeping the shelf resistant to everyday wear. |
5. FAQ – Your Most Common Pallet‑Finishing Questions
Q1: Do I need to sand pallet wood before any finish?
A: Yes. Even if you’re applying an oil that penetrates, sanding removes splinters, evens out surface irregularities, and opens the pores so the finish can soak in evenly.
Q2: Are oil‑based finishes safer for indoor use than water‑based?
A: Both are safe when fully cured, but oil‑based finishes emit stronger VOCs during application, so you’ll need more ventilation. Water‑based finishes dry faster and have lower odor, making them a better choice for confined indoor spaces.
Q3: How many coats of polyurethane are enough?
A: For most indoor furniture, two to three coats provide a solid protective film. If the piece will see heavy use (e.g., a kitchen table), add a fourth coat and sand lightly between each layer.
Q4: Can I combine finishes (e.g., oil + polyurethane)?
A: Absolutely. A common technique is to first apply an oil (tung or linseed) to enrich the grain, let it cure fully, then seal with water‑based polyurethane for a hard, water‑resistant topcoat.
Q5: My pallet wood still smells like chemicals. Will finishing eliminate the odor?
A: A good finish can seal in some odors, but the best way to reduce chemical smells is to air‑cure the wood for several days after cleaning and sanding. If the smell persists, consider using a low‑odor oil or water‑based product and ensure proper ventilation during application.
Q6: Is epoxy resin suitable for outdoor use?
A: Standard epoxy is not UV‑stable and will yellow under direct sunlight. For outdoor river tables, use a UV‑resistant epoxy or protect the surface with a topcoat of marine spar urethane.
Q7: How do I know if my pallet wood is safe (e.g., no pressure-treated wood)?
A: Look for stamps: HT (heat‑treated) is safe for indoor projects; MB (must be heat‑treated) or KD (kiln‑dried) are also fine. Avoid pallets marked “DP” (dip‑treated with chemicals) or “SB” (subject to fumigation).
Q8: Can I refinish a pallet piece later?
A: Yes. For oil‑based finishes, clean the surface, lightly sand, and reapply. For polyurethane, you may need to strip the old coat with a chemical stripper or heat gun if it’s heavily scratched.
6. Bottom Line: Choose the Finish That Matches Your Project’s Personality
Your pallet wood project is a canvas—your finish is the final brushstroke.
If you love the natural, lived‑in look and want a finish you can easily touch up, go with tung oil or a hardwax oil.
If the piece will sit outdoors, face sunlight, or endure rain, exterior spar urethane or a marine‑grade varnish is the safest bet.
If you’re after a showroom‑level, glass‑like surface, epoxy resin combined with a UV‑blocking topcoat will deliver that wow factor.
Remember to prep the wood, test a small area, and apply thin, even coats. With the right finish, your reclaimed pallet will not only look stunning—it will last for years, turning waste into a proud, functional work of art.
Happy building!